If a complete powerhead overhaul is necessary on your outboard, we recommend that you find a local machine shop that has both an excellent reputation and that specializes in marine work. Some machine shops would prefer to perform the disassembly themselves. In these cases, you can usually remove the powerhead from the gearcase and deliver the entire unit to the shop for disassembly, inspection, machining and assembly. If you decide to perform the entire overhaul yourself, proceed slowly, taking care to following instructions closely.
Consider using a digital camera if available to help document assemblies during the removal and disassembly procedures. This can be especially helpful if the overhaul or rebuild is going to take place over an extended amount of time.
It is better to proceed slowly, asking help when necessary from your trusted parts counterman or a tech with experience on these motors. Keep in mind that anytime pistons, rings and bearings have been replaced, the powerhead must be broken-in again, as if it were a brand-new motor.
Once a major overhaul is completed, refer to the section on Powerhead Break-In for details on how to ensure the rings set properly without damage or scoring to the new cylinder wall or the piston surfaces. Careful break-in or a properly overhauled motor will ensure many years of service for the trusty powerhead.
The gearcase contains the propeller shaft, the driven and pinion gears, the driveshaft from the powerhead and the water pump. On models equipped with shifting capabilities, the fonvard and reverse gears, together with the clutch, shift assembly, and related linkage, are all housed within the case.
The single most important task for proper gearcase maintenance is inspecting it for signs of leakage after each use. If oil can get out, then water can get in. And, water, mixing with or replacing the oil in the gearcase will wreak havoc with the shafts and gears contained within the housinq.
The second most important task for proper gearcase maintenance is checkinq and maintainina the oil inside the case. Water entering the gearcase will usually cause the oil to turn a slightly milky-white color.
Also, significant amounts of water mixed with the oil will give the appearance of an overfilled condition. If you suspect water in the gearcase, start by draining and closely inspecting the fluid refer to the procedures found in the Maintenance and Tune-Up section.
Then, refill the unit with fresh oil and test the outboard by using it! Watch the fluid level closely after the test, and for the first few outings. If any oil leaks out or water enters, either the propeller shaft seal must be replaced or the gearcase must be disassembled, inspected and completely overhauled.
To be honest, a complete overhaul is recommended, because corrosion and damage may have occurred if moisture was in the gearcase long enough. But, in some cases, if the leak was caught in time, and there is no significant wear, damage or corrosion in the gearcase, the propeller shaft seal can usually be replaced with the gearcase still installed to the outboard.
The last, most important task you can perform to help keep your gearcase in top shape, is to flush the inside and outside of the aearcase after each use. Cleaning the gearcase will also help you spot potential Fig. Remove any sand, silt or dirt that could potentially damage seals or clog passages. Once you've rinsed the outside, hook up a flushing device and do the same for the inside. Again, details are found in the Maintenance and Tune-up section, look under Flushing the Cooling System.
On all motors except the 2. For safety, disconnect the spark plug lead, then ground it to the cylinder head. If necessary for service or access, remove the propeller, for details refer to the procedure in the Maintenance and Tune-Up section. Check condition of all fuel lines and replace any found to be bad. Fuel pump anchor screw s loose.
Tighten all screws evenly and securely. Fuel pump gasket s worn out. Rebuild fuel pump. Air in fuel line. A dirty or clogged fuel filter. Clean or replace fuel filter. The fuel pickup in fuel tank clogged or dirty. Clean or replace pickup. Worn out fuel pump diaphragm. Defective hole or crack check valve s in fuel pump unlikely. Broken check valve retainer. Pulse hole plugged. Remove fuel pump and clean out hole. Replace pulse hose.
Loose pulse hose. Tighten connection. Boost diaphragm gasket distorted or out of place. Align or replace gasket if necessary. Fuel Pump Components Design 1 NOTE: In fuel pump reassembly, remember that respective diaphragms go against the mating surfaces of the fuel pump body, and respective gaskets are between the diaphragms and end caps.
Gaskets should always be replaced on fuel pump assembly. Carburetion Fuel System Troubleshooting Troubles, that are caused by items 1-thru-5, listed below, may give the impression that a problem exists in the fuel system: 1.
Spark plugs 2. Ignition spark voltage 3. Cylinder compression 4. Reed valves 5. Ignition timing Troubleshooting Charts. Check fuel in fuel tank and replace or add.
Fuel tank air vent closed or restricted. Air vent must be open and free from contaminants. A pinched or restricted fuel line. Check, and replace as needed. Dirty or restricted fuel filter. Check, replace or clean. Enrichener valve not operating. Check enrichener system. An inlet needle in carburetor that is stuck open or closed. A needle stuck open, will cause a flooding condition. A needle stuck closed, will prevent fuel from entering carburetor. Remove, clean, or replace.
Anti-Siphon valve restricting fuel flow. Flush out inlet seat and clean inlet needle. Worn inlet needle. Punctured float. Incorrect float setting. Reset float.
Air leaks past mixing chamber cover. Tighten bolts securely. Tighten cover or replace gasket. Fuel level too low. Reset float level. Clogged high speed jet. Check and clean. Restricted fuel flow to carburetor. Check fuel lines and filter s for restricted flow. Incorrect high speed jet. Refer to main jet chart and replace with proper jet. Idle mixture set too lean. Adjust to run richener. Air leakage into fuel system. Check fuel line connections, hose clamps, fuel pump, and fuel outlet tube located in fuel tank for loose fittings.
Reset float to correct level.
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